Yes, they are printed, but the color correction in this edition is legendary. Monogram used a five-color process to match the original BuAer lacquer chips. Compare the chip for Insignia Red (used on the national insignia) to any hobby paint—you will be shocked how "orange" the real red actually was.
This is not just a paint chip book. It is a time machine. Let’s open the cover. First, a word on credibility. The "Official Monogram" series carries weight because it is built on primary source documents. Author John M. Elliott and the team at Monogram Aviation Publications didn’t guess by looking at faded warbirds at airshows. They went into the National Archives and pulled the actual BuAer specifications, drawing numbers, and color standards .
If you have ever stood in front of a model shelf or stared at a grainy black-and-white photo of a Corsair on Okinawa, you know the pain. Is that blue Insignia Blue or Midnight Blue ? Is that interior Bronze Green or Dull Dark Green ? And what, in the name of Grumman’s ghost, is Squadron Blue ? Yes, they are printed, but the color correction
For the plastic modeler, it will save you from the tragedy of painting your F4U-4 Corsair in the wrong shade of blue for the Korean War (spoiler: it’s slightly different than WWII). For the digital artist and flight simmer, it provides the hex-code and RGB approximations needed to make your textures bleed authenticity. For the historian, it is simply the final word on what color the war was.
Volume 2 specifically covers the tumultuous decade where the Navy went from biplanes to jets, from propellers to tailhooks, and from fragmented camouflage to a unified, global blue strategy. This is not just a paint chip book
When you hold this book, you are holding the actual standards that came out of the Bureau of Aeronautics. You are holding the directive that sent thousands of blue angels (lowercase 'a') screaming across the Pacific.
There is a fold-out chart in the back that cross-references every Navy aircraft model (TBM, F4U, F6F, PBY, PBM, etc.) with the exact date a given Measure was authorized. If you are building a Hellcat from the USS Lexington in May 1944, you know exactly which blue was on the factory floor. First, a word on credibility
Volume 2 doesn't just cover paint. It covers the font, size, and color of every stencil. "No Step." "Rescue Arrow." The "Meatball" insignia borders. The shift from the red center dot (pre-war) to the blue border (1943) to the red outline (1947—briefly, and then removed again). It’s all here. A Critique: Who is this NOT for? Honesty in reviewing: This is not a coffee table picture book. If you want glossy, full-page spreads of Mustangs in formation, look elsewhere. The images in Volume 2 are often grainy, black-and-white official Navy progress photos. They are chosen for detail , not drama. You will see close-ups of corroded cowling fasteners and peeling paint on a catapult hook.
5/5 Corsair wings. Essential reference. No shelf is complete without it. Have you used the Monogram guides for a build? Did you discover a weird variation in WWII Navy paint? Let me know in the comments below—especially if you’ve ever tried to mix "Intermediate Blue" from scratch.
If you want to paint an "average" Navy plane, go buy a hobby magazine. If you want to paint the Navy plane—the specific aircraft, on the specific day, from the specific squadron—you need Volume 2.
Yes, they are printed, but the color correction in this edition is legendary. Monogram used a five-color process to match the original BuAer lacquer chips. Compare the chip for Insignia Red (used on the national insignia) to any hobby paint—you will be shocked how "orange" the real red actually was.
This is not just a paint chip book. It is a time machine. Let’s open the cover. First, a word on credibility. The "Official Monogram" series carries weight because it is built on primary source documents. Author John M. Elliott and the team at Monogram Aviation Publications didn’t guess by looking at faded warbirds at airshows. They went into the National Archives and pulled the actual BuAer specifications, drawing numbers, and color standards .
If you have ever stood in front of a model shelf or stared at a grainy black-and-white photo of a Corsair on Okinawa, you know the pain. Is that blue Insignia Blue or Midnight Blue ? Is that interior Bronze Green or Dull Dark Green ? And what, in the name of Grumman’s ghost, is Squadron Blue ?
For the plastic modeler, it will save you from the tragedy of painting your F4U-4 Corsair in the wrong shade of blue for the Korean War (spoiler: it’s slightly different than WWII). For the digital artist and flight simmer, it provides the hex-code and RGB approximations needed to make your textures bleed authenticity. For the historian, it is simply the final word on what color the war was.
Volume 2 specifically covers the tumultuous decade where the Navy went from biplanes to jets, from propellers to tailhooks, and from fragmented camouflage to a unified, global blue strategy.
When you hold this book, you are holding the actual standards that came out of the Bureau of Aeronautics. You are holding the directive that sent thousands of blue angels (lowercase 'a') screaming across the Pacific.
There is a fold-out chart in the back that cross-references every Navy aircraft model (TBM, F4U, F6F, PBY, PBM, etc.) with the exact date a given Measure was authorized. If you are building a Hellcat from the USS Lexington in May 1944, you know exactly which blue was on the factory floor.
Volume 2 doesn't just cover paint. It covers the font, size, and color of every stencil. "No Step." "Rescue Arrow." The "Meatball" insignia borders. The shift from the red center dot (pre-war) to the blue border (1943) to the red outline (1947—briefly, and then removed again). It’s all here. A Critique: Who is this NOT for? Honesty in reviewing: This is not a coffee table picture book. If you want glossy, full-page spreads of Mustangs in formation, look elsewhere. The images in Volume 2 are often grainy, black-and-white official Navy progress photos. They are chosen for detail , not drama. You will see close-ups of corroded cowling fasteners and peeling paint on a catapult hook.
5/5 Corsair wings. Essential reference. No shelf is complete without it. Have you used the Monogram guides for a build? Did you discover a weird variation in WWII Navy paint? Let me know in the comments below—especially if you’ve ever tried to mix "Intermediate Blue" from scratch.
If you want to paint an "average" Navy plane, go buy a hobby magazine. If you want to paint the Navy plane—the specific aircraft, on the specific day, from the specific squadron—you need Volume 2.